Plant care guide
Your order has just been delivered or picked up. Proper care during the first growing season is critical for successful long-term establishment. Tap your plant category below to view its complete care instructions.
DO NOT WATER WITH A SOAKER HOSE
Water deeply at the root zone 2–3 times per week for the first full growing season — about 1–2 gallons per tree at the root ball.
A slow, deep soak is far better than frequent shallow watering. In hot or dry spells, increase to every other day. Avoid standing water — roots that sit wet will rot.
The top of the root ball should sit at or slightly above grade. Never bury the trunk flare.
2–3 inches of mulch around the base keeps moisture in and temperature stable. Keep it away from the trunk.
Some needle browning on the interior is normal transplant stress — not a problem. Watch the outer tips; those should stay green.
Water 2–3 times per week for the first full growing season. Boxwood is sensitive to both drought and overwatering.
Check soil moisture about 2 inches below the surface before watering. If it's still damp, wait a day.
Boxwood prefers morning sun with some afternoon shade in hot weather. Avoid west-facing exposures with intense afternoon heat.
2 inches of mulch is important for boxwood — it moderates the soil-temperature swings that stress its shallow roots.
Don't prune at all during the first season. Let it focus on root establishment.
Water deeply twice a week for the first full growing season. Conifers are drought-tolerant once established but need consistent moisture while rooting in.
Don't let the root ball dry out completely during the first growing season.
These plants will not tolerate wet feet. If your site holds water after rain, amend with compost or plant slightly raised.
2–3 inches of mulch, pulled back from the trunk collar.
Water deeply 2–3 times per week. These plants have shallow, fibrous root systems that dry out quickly.
During the first full growing season, don't let the soil dry more than about an inch below the surface.
These are acid-loving plants. If your soil is neutral to alkaline, a dose of Holly-tone or sulfur at planting will help them settle in.
Dappled shade or morning sun is ideal. Avoid direct afternoon sun, especially in the first season.
3 inches of pine bark or wood-chip mulch — these plants evolved under forest canopy and love the acidic organic matter.
Water deeply twice a week for the first full growing season — more often in the first two weeks right after planting.
A slow trickle at the root zone for 30–45 minutes beats a quick surface spray every time.
The root flare must sit at or above grade. This is the single most common planting mistake — a buried flare will decline slowly over years.
Hold off on fertilizer for the first season. Let the roots establish before pushing top growth.
Water deeply 2–3 times per week. Ornamental trees are often smaller-caliper and root in faster, but the first full growing season is still critical.
Don't let them stress in August heat. Give them 1–2 gallons of water per day at the root ball for one full growing season.
Give it afternoon shade during heat waves. Leaf scorch on Japanese Maples in summer is almost always a watering issue — they're thirsty in heat.
Do not overhead water — this will burn the leaves!
2–3 inches, keeping it clear of the trunk. Ornamentals are especially prone to crown rot if mulch piles against the bark.
Water every 2–3 days for the first 3–4 weeks, then taper to once or twice a week as they root in.
These establish faster than trees — by mid-summer most will be largely self-sufficient.
Don't cut ornamental grasses back at planting — leave the foliage. Cut back hard in early spring before new growth emerges.
Some leaf drop after transplanting is a normal stress response. Keep watering consistently and new growth will follow.
1–2 inches around perennials and shrubs keeps the soil from drying too fast between waterings.
